Once upon a time

Once upon a time
Villa Giovanelli
Once upon a time in Lonigo there were princes, and today their villa still stands on the hill, overlooking the town like a belvedere. A Benedictine monastery dedicated to the Veronese martyrs Fermo and Rustico was established here as early as the 10th century, dependent on the Abbey of San Benedetto di Polirone (Mantua). In the 15th century, it passed under the jurisdiction of the canons of San Giorgio in Alga (Venice). In 1668, the congregation was suppressed and the Lonigo monastery was purchased by the Venetian families Venier and later Contarini, following the practice of the Serenissima to invest in suppressed ecclesiastical properties, exploiting the agricultural lands and buildings as farms and summer residences. In 1834, the Giovanelli family succeeded the Contarini by hereditary right, incorporating into the property the small convent of San Bonaventura, known as “La Cappuccina,” and the hermitage of Santa Colomba on the summit of the hill. The abbey complex was transformed into a princely residence, preserving the cloister, the church, and the towers, which gave the villa the appearance of a modern manor overlooking the town of Lonigo.

It was in fact the last villa of the glorious Venetian tradition, on which the architects Zanella, Meduna, Bagnara, and Balzaretto worked to redesign the entire complex, enriched by a triumphal entrance at the foot of the hill, a theater, a covered riding hall, an Italian garden, a park rich in exotic plants with a romantic lake and a caféhaus. The hermitage was transformed, to meet the needs of the thousand fields that constituted the property, into a Swiss-style farmhouse, according to the eclectic taste of the late 19th century, with a pointed slate roof and wooden profiles, while La Cappuccina remained a picturesque ruin nestled among the cypresses that lined the profile of the hill.
entrance of the rivers
The monumental entrance
The villa is announced on the square of Via Ognibene (once known as “Mercà del pollame”) with the monumental entrance of the Rivers, the work of Bagnara, at the foot of the hill. Two towers, adorned with herms, protomes, and balustrades, are joined by a high gate and enclose a scenographic structure like a Roman aqueduct with an exedra, surmounted by statues of the rivers of Italy, seated solemnly in the center, crowned with towers and bearing the Giovanelli coat of arms with the date of completion of the works, 1868. From here, through caves and paths among the trees, one reaches the elegant double-ramp staircase that connects the park with the villa and the Italian garden, known as “the Princess’s garden.”
The other access opens on Via San Fermo and is functional for high school students: now paved, it was once entirely a staircase that, set between walls and airy bridges, climbed to the southern portal of the church, frequented by the population of Lonigo. Eight shrines with medallions of Benedictine saints conclude the ascent, and on this entrance a plaque announces the enjoyment of the same indulgences as the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano in Rome. In the radical redesign, only the chapel of Sant’Orsola was preserved from the ancient abbey church, which on the exterior retains the small apse outlined by the interlacing of Romanesque hanging arches. The brick spire of the bell tower, which had four pinecones like that of San Daniele, was replaced with a Venetian-style dome, while the Gothic biforate windows of the bell chamber remained.

This is the official entrance to the property, located between Via Trento and Via C. Ridolfi. It is the work of the Vicenza architect Francesco Bagnara (1784-1866), a famous set designer at La Fenice in Venice. Bordered laterally by two towers, it takes its name from the statues of the main Italian rivers. Completed in 1868, it represents a true theater, through which carriages entered and, on comfortable avenues, ascended to the villa. Those who wished could descend to climb on foot, along comfortable paths, illuminated by oil lamps and bordered by benches for a restorative rest. The integration between the classical elements of the formal garden and the mature volumes of the trees behind, which create the wings of the scene, is astonishing.
From 1845 to 1852, the church of San Fermo was rebuilt in neo-Renaissance style: the façade is decorated with an arched pediment, reminiscent of the Lombard style of the nearby Church of the Madonna dei Miracoli, and the sculptural decorations of the portal, the rose window, the festoons and pilasters, as well as the window frames, testify to the presence of refined stonemasons, guided by the architect Zanella and the taste of the cultured Prince Giuseppe. The interior is in the form of a Latin cross, in Venetian-Lombard style, with pilasters, festoons, and cornices that emphasize the architectural members. The presbytery houses some surviving sacred furnishings from the treasure of San Fermo, such as silver busts of bishops, cases of precious relics and, behind the high altar, a carved and gilded cedar ark containing the remains of San Rustico, taken from the Verano cemetery in Rome in 1728. The grandiose paintings on the sides, depicting San Lorenzo Giustiniani and San Giorgio, come from La Cappuccina and are attributed to the 17th-century Lonigo painter Calo Ridolfi. In the neoclassical chapel of the Immaculate Conception, initially the mausoleum of the Giovanelli, the composed and spontaneous elegance of the Annunciate Madonna, sculpted and signed by the Venetian L. Borro, is striking. The chapel of Sant’Orsola was not altered in the 19th century, so the refined sculptural decoration dates back to the workshop of Alvise Lamberti da Montagnana, simultaneously active at Madonna. The altarpiece attributed to Bonifazio Dè Pitati depicts the “Procession of the Virgins with Sant’Orsola” in sumptuous princely garments, while sailing ships ready to set sail for the pilgrimage of no return sway on the seashore. The sacristy, with its sail vault resting on hanging capitals, is authentically Renaissance.
three halls
The latest modifications
The villa revolves around the large cloister, at the center of which the well with the precious sculpted wellhead dated 1556 has been preserved. On the east side, the space has been irreparably altered by the modern construction of the school building and the terrible glass passage: once, leaving the cloister, the view ranged from the garden to the airy quadrangular courtyard surrounded by servants’ quarters, greenhouses, the small theater, the Cavallerizza (covered riding hall), and the ascent to the tennis courts and the surprising English-style park, designed by G. Balzaretto, the “wizard of Milanese gardens.” It was the Meduna brothers, Venetian engineers and architects, who designed the external appearance of the villa, open to the park and the town, which aimed to be “modern,” devoid of classical references: indeed, the frames of doors and windows have a hint of Art Nouveau, the shutters are folding, parapets and railings are cast iron, and the canopy above the portal recalls Parisian metro stations more than monumental entrances. On either side of the entrance are two halls with large windows that were greenhouses for oranges and cedars, as well as winter gardens, one of which is now a chapel. The vault of the atrium is decorated with noble coats of arms in finest stucco; the grand staircase, with its floral railing and steps compartmentalized with goldsmith-like precision, leads to the piano nobile with the three halls facing west, from which one enjoys a memorable panorama from Monte Baldo to the Modenese Apennines. The first is the library and audience hall, with refined original cherry wood furnishings: parquet, monumental doors, and library cabinets in eclectic style, the work of exquisite cabinetmakers. The ceiling speaks of the Prince’s literary preferences, with medallions of Dante and Beatrice, Petrarch and Laura; at the center, a tondo painted by Mosè Bianchi, like a glimpse of sky in which Paolo and Francesca, the damned lovers from Dante’s Inferno, soar. The double door opens onto the Red Room, called the Tapestry Room for the Stories of Semiramis once hung beside the fireplace. This hall, which was the scene of festivities with crowned heads, is embellished by the red marble door frames and a black touchstone fireplace from the Contarini Palace in Venice, adorned with delightful Delft ceramics, over which a bust with a military triumph and the Giovanelli coat of arms was placed. But for the ceiling, the Doge’s Palace in Venice was taken as a model, with gilded carvings and stuccos and three ovals cut into the sky, for whose subjects, modern but in a mythological key, M. Bianchi went to Venice to study Veronese and Tiepolo. In bold and skillful foreshortening, Peace is represented as favoring development and prosperity in the world. Southern oval: Mercury, god of human activities, flies across the skies together with a most tender Flora with butterfly wings.
Northern oval: Mars, god of war, descends from a menacing cloudbank, haughty and heedless of the supplicating mothers among the arrayed cannons. Central oval: Peace, with Glory and History, celebrates her triumph, which the four continents will enjoy, symbolically represented. A carved and gilded band connects the walls with the ceiling, punctuating scenes of children’s games, as if looking out from small windows onto the world of adults. The third hall is called the music room because here the Princess used to have chamber music or piano music performed: it is the most refined and graceful environment. A delicate framework of stuccos frames the dancing Seasons and simulates the grid of a pergola at whose center appears a Flora (painted by Bianchi) supported by putti while scattering the flowers of spring on the earth; and these descend along the glaucous walls like a magnificent dance of corollas and relief and painted stucco racemes (designed by L. Scrosati). In the northern wing of the villa, accessed from the cloister, are the most intimate rooms of the princely family, such as the Fireplace sitting room, with white medallions by Caremi depicting tender childhood games in relief and vivid garlands of flowers blooming from the brush of Luigi Scrosati. But his brilliant invention was to “break through” the low ceiling of an adjacent room, illusionistically creating an airy rococo balustrade against the background of a midday sky, crossed by the still-winged flights of pigeons from the square, and thus the room burdened by an oppressive ceiling becomes the Hall of Doves. The happy hand of this Milanese decorator is also responsible for the floral garlands of the apartments for important guests, located in the towers.

English-style
The park of Villa San Fermo
The park of Villa San Fermo occupies one of the last southern offshoots of the Berici Hills. The property extends over approximately 30 hectares, devoted to vineyards, olive groves, and woods; only a small part, approximately 10 hectares, is still parkland, and thanks to it one can reconstruct the grandeur of the original garden.
Born from the ingenuity of the Milanese architect Giuseppe Balzaretti, the English-style park began to take shape in conjunction with the reconstruction work on the villa after the fire of 1855. Initially, the terrain had to be modeled, carriage roads designed to connect the various buildings inserted in the park but, above all, irrigation organized, without which a garden cannot exist. Thus, rainwater collection basins were created at different altimetric levels, so as to convey them to the vegetable garden, the greenhouses, the villa’s winter garden, and finally to the lake, directly connected to the Brendola canal.
Four levels with defined functions can be identified in the property: the Entrance of the Rivers, which brings the park into the city center, the Villa, La Cappuccina (old monastery with adjoining church), and Santa Colomba.

These structures were built anew or restored according to the style of the landscape garden with the addition of elements typical of Habsburg gardens. In particular, Santa Colomba was a model farm built in Swiss style; just below La Cappuccina stood a Caféhaus where guests were often entertained with music and dancing, and the lake was navigable with a small boat and close to the deer enclosure. All this was connected by tree-lined and paved avenues, intersected by paths dedicated to illustrious classical figures (Homer, Virgil), set in a plant collection that was meant to arouse emotion and celebrate the fame of the owners.
It is precisely the trees, majestic and sometimes battered, that are the legacy of this great park. They testify to the exotic taste, travels to distant lands, and the desire to amaze, typical of the era. Thus, around the lake stand graceful bald cypresses (Taxodium distichum Rich.) that contrast with the dark green of the magnolias; the skating rink is surrounded by an avenue of Sophora japonica L., and from the yew surrounding the Caféhaus lawn emerge the white trunks of black pine (Pinus nigra Arnold). There is no shortage of lindens, oaks, Liquidambar styraciflua L., ash trees, and maples that in autumn weave a multicolored carpet, where walking is an exciting experience.
The Provincial Territorial Coordination Plan has registered in the system of large trees to be protected some specimens present in the park: a bald cypress or taxodium, the avenue of hackberries, and a sophora. In a previous volume by the Regional Council and WWF, a stunning English oak (Quercus robur L.) was also listed, still present in the caféhaus area, with a circumference of almost 4 meters.
During World War II, the park of Villa San Fermo became a place much frequented by the population. The large trees, especially the fast-growing ailanthus, provided firewood, and the Polyphemus Caves, tunnels carved into the rock near Vicolo San Fermo, became an air-raid shelter during enemy raids. Finally, the Caféhaus was definitively destroyed by the bombing of October 31, 1944.
On the profile of the hill overlooking Lonigo, a church with a gabled façade with a rose window and a bell gable is recognizable. It is the Church of San Bonaventura, with an adjoining convent. Consecrated in 1658 for the presence of Capuchin friars desired by the Pisani brothers, owners of the Rocca. In 1769, the Capuchins were expelled following the suppression ordered by the Venetian Republic; the church was closed to worship in 1876, and the Giovanelli incorporated it into the park of their villa.